Sunday, November 17, 2024

Here’s Why The Destroyer USS Kidd Was Flying A Huge Pirate Flag As It Pulled Into Port


The ship has a unique relationship with the Jolly Roger and is the only one in the Navy officially authorized to fly it.

(by Joseph Trevithick twz.com 11-27-20)

The U.S. Navy’s Arleigh Burke class destroyer USS Kidd recently returned from a cruise flying a large black pirate flag with a white skull and crossbones motif, better known as a Jolly Roger. The modern display of this flag, which traces its roots back to the 17th century, on a naval vessel, especially submarines, at the conclusion of a deployment generally reflects some kind of notable achievement. However, this particular ship has its own unique history with the skull and crossbones, which has to do with its namesake, Rear Admiral Isaac Kidd, and Captain William Kidd, a Scottish sailor executed for piracy in 1701.

USS Kidd returned to Naval Station Everett in Washington State on Sept. 21, 2020, after completing a patrol focused on countering drug smuggling in the Eastern Pacific Ocean and Caribbean. The destroyer had set out for this patrol in April as part of a then-new Enhanced Counter-Narcotics Operations effort led by U.S. Southern Command (SOUTHCOM). For this deployment, the ship also had an MH-60R Seahawk helicopter from Helicopter Maritime Strike Squadron 75 (HSM-75) and a U.S. Coast Guard Law Enforcement Detachment (LEDET) embarked. 

“This deployment has been extremely challenging, but Kidd set the standard for operational mission execution and readiness,” Navy Commander Nathan Wemett, the destroyer’s commanding officer, said in a statement. “I thank all the Sailors and U.S. Coast Guardsmen who overcame many obstacles in order to carry out our mission.”

The Navy said that the destroyer had assisted the Coast Guard LEDET in seizing 805 kilograms of cocaine, nearly a ton of drugs, with an estimated value of $30 million during this patrol. The ship had also rendered assistance to a fishing vessel, towing it more than 200 miles to safety.

Kidd also suffered an outbreak of the COVID-19 novel coronavirus among its crew, forcing it to make an unscheduled stop in San Diego at the end of April. The ship’s crew eventually got things under control and the ship headed back out to sea in June to finish its deployment.

The official news item marking the ship’s return to Everett made no mention of the pirate flag or its significance with regards to the USS Kidd. As already noted, the white skull and crossbones on a solid black flag trace back to pirates operating in the Atlantic and Caribbean during the 17th and 18th centuries. Skeletons, the devil, and hourglasses, as well as red accents, such as hearts and drops of blood, were also common. You can read more about the background of these symbols in this past War Zone story.

The broad modern return of these flags on naval vessels, particularly in submarine communities, dates back to World War I, when U.K. Royal Navy submarine crews began flying them after returning from patrols in which they sunk enemy ships. This practice subsequently expanded to reflect a wide array of other achievements at, including successfully completing sea trials or otherwise having a “perfect” deployment. Crews would add additional symbols to their flags to mark the completion of different tasks and missions. You can read more about this in this previous War Zone story. 

However, the crew of the USS Kidd fly the Jolly Roger for an entirely different reason, which traces its roots to Japan’s infamous surprise attack on Pearl Harbor in Hawaii on Dec. 7, 1941. At that time, Rear Admiral Isaac Kidd, Sr. was Commander of Battleship Division One and the Chief of Staff and Aide to the Commander, Battleship Battle Force.

After the Japanese attack began, he made his way to his flagship, the Pennsylvania class battleship USS Arizona, and took part in the ensuing battle until the ship exploded after bombs hit one of its ammunition magazines. Rear Admiral Kidd was among the 1,177 officers and crew who died on the battleship, which still lies at the bottom of Pearl Harbor and is now a memorial to the events of that day. 

In April 1943, the Navy commissioned a Fletcher class destroyer, also known by its hull number DD 661, named after Rear Admiral Kidd. Even at the time of that ship’s delivery, the crew had already adopted Scottish Captain Kidd as a mascot. 

That Kidd is typically referred as a pirate, but also operated at times as a privateer in service of the French Crown and hunted pirates. He was finally arrested in Boston, in what was then the British colony of Massachusetts, in 1699. He was subsequently sent to England, tried, and eventually executed for piracy and murder in 1701. Tales of his purported buried treasure became a thing of legend and served as the inspiration for songs, books, and actual real-life expeditions hoping to find it.

“The crew of the [first] Kidd … had also painted the famed buccaneer’s image high on the forward smokestack,” according to a 2013 edition of the official newsletter of the current USS Kidd. “Not wishing to dishonor the ship’s namesake, however, the crew obtained permission from Mrs. Inez Kidd, widow of RADM Kidd, first.”

As it turned out, Kidd’s nickname at the Naval Academy had been “Cap” in reference to Captain Kidd, as well. With help from Mrs. Kidd, the ship’s crew obtained formal permission to both have the Jolly Roger painted on the smokestack and fly the flag. “Subsequently, the Sailors of DD 661 were known to rescue downed aviators in the Pacific Ocean during World War II and return them to their aircraft carrier, for a hefty ransom of ice cream first of course,” the 2013 newsletter says. They also became known as the Pirates of the Pacific.

The Navy decommissioned the first USS Kidd in 1946, before returning it to service in 1951 to serve in the Korean War. It remained in service this second time around until 1964 and was finally stricken from the rolls for good in 1974. It is now a museum ship, parked on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. 

In 1981, the service commissioned a new USS Kidd, the first of four destroyers originally built for Iran, which were never delivered to that country owing to the overthrow of the Shah in 1979. This ship inherited the formal approval to fly the Jolly Roger. In 1998, all four Kidd class destroyers were transferred to Taiwan, where they remain in service as the Kee Lung class.

The Navy then commissioned the current USS Kidd, a Flight IIA Arleigh Burke class destroyer, in 2007. As the latest ship to be named after Rear Admiral Kidd, it now has the official sanction to fly the Jolly Roger.

The appearance of the Jolly Roger on Kidd upon its return home comes after the Pentagon issued a new set of policies for the U.S. military as a whole regarding the display of flags and other symbols in July. There had been concerns that this could prohibit ships’ crews from flying the Jolly Roger, among other flags. It remains unclear exactly how those regulations will get applied, but the case of this particular destroyer makes clear that the Navy has the power to give official sanction to such things.

With all this in mind, we want to congratulate the Pirates of the Pacific on successfully completing their most recent patrol.

https://www.twz.com/36644/heres-why-the-destroyer-uss-kidd-was-flying-a-huge-pirate-flag-as-it-pulled-into-port

Sunday, November 10, 2024

Candid thoughts on Bocas del Toro, Panama


(evanquarnstrom.com 4-14-24)

There exists a category of destinations I’ve visited that can best be summarized by: “I don’t regret coming here, but I don’t have much desire to come back anytime soon.” And it’s not that these destinations are necessarily bad or unpleasant, it’s that, as I accrue more travel experience, the great destinations start to truly differentiate themselves from the decent, the mediocre, and the ‘meh.’

After spending the past three weeks in Bocas del Toro, Panama, I also toss it into that bucket (at risk of sounding like a spoiled gringo who has the privilege to rate his tropical vacations).

I mean, on paper Bocas is great. The postcard-worthy Caribbean isles off the mainland of Western Panama were ‘discovered’ in 1502 by Colombus himself. The islands have transformed into a tourism hotbed complete with a small airport that shuttles passengers from Panama City. You can go diving, snorkeling, ATVing, swimming, fishing, surfing, and hiking. In Bocas you don’t have to go far to find electric blue water lapping up against palm tree-lined, white sand beaches where rambunctious howler monkeys frolic and pensive sloths lumber.

Bocas del Toro is also a melting pot of Panamanians. On Bastimentos Island you’ll find the creole-speaking Afro-Panamanians, descendants of Jamaican immigrants who were the first non-natives to settle these islands in large numbers. And if you keep your ears open around the bustling streets of Bocas Town, you’ll hear indigenous languages, plenty of Mandarin, and, of course, the Panamanian dialect of Spanish frequently interjected by their favorite swear word, ‘chucha.’

To top it all off, there’s surf. Storms and wind spinning out in the Caribbean Sea send chunky, short-period swells to the Panamanian coast during the winter and spring months. The reefs and beaches of Bocas harness the swells astonishingly well to make waves that are fun for surfing — or even epic on their best days.

But, all that said, Bocas hasn’t really been my cup of tea. And it’s been a bit of a mental exercise to try to pinpoint exactly why.

As far as Latin America goes — or even as far as Panama goes — Bocas is expensive. This is the product of island life with excessive amounts of North American/European/Argentinian tourists and ex-pats. To dodge the steeper prices, I did two weeks of hostel dorms when I arrived in Bocas, only to remind myself that, at 32 years old, I am truly aging out of shared rooms.

Transportation was a bit of an issue for me in Bocas. For many, this may not be the case, but for a surfer (or someone who enjoys getting into the outdoors) it can become a problem. Transport between islands is done by small panga boats. The shortest, most basic routes are typically $5 each way per person (Panama uses USD), or maybe a little more if the boat driver senses you can be duped. These $5-8 rides start to really add up if you want to be on top of the waves. And finding a go-to boat driver is crucial. Before we found our “guy,” other drivers refused to take us to certain spots, wanted obscene prices to take us to slightly farther spots, or were just flat out unreliable. My friend, Nate, and I spent an afternoon getting toasted in the sun when our boat driver never returned to pick us up. As we later found out, he found a more profitable boat tour and didn’t send anyone back to replace him. (Leaving gringos stranded in the midday, equatorial sun is borderline attempted murder.) When we finally gave up on ever seeing that driver again, we flagged down a passing boat driver who, sensing our predicament, noticed he could make a few extra bucks off some stranded tourists — the classic gringo tax.

If you are staying on the main island, Isla Colón, which is where the main town is and where I was for two of my three weeks, transportation is done by vehicle or bicycle on one of two roads that wind around the island. It’s not very walkable unless you are spending all your time in town, which no one does. The scooters/e-bikes were being rented for $40/day and the ATVs were going for $90 for the first day and then $50 each day after that. Oh how I missed the $5 scooters of Bali. The taxis are all Toyota pick-up trucks and shared with other passengers, typically ranging from $2-5 per person — somewhat convenient if you are heading into town, less so if you want to go surfing and check spots. The prices are set for the tourist visiting for a few days looking to dump their wallet, not as much for the full-time traveler like myself who can’t shell out that money for a month straight. So, my solution was going into town (where things tend to be a bit cheaper) and renting a bicycle for $5 per day. I managed to scrap together a surf rack and went on a wild goose chase for an allen wrench to assemble it. While getting around via bicycle was the cheapest option, it was far from the most comfortable. Travel on the pot hole-riddled roads was slow and jarring, oftentimes bumping my chain off the cogs. And the continuous clouds of dust kicked up by passing vehicles would accumulate on my drenching sweat in the extreme humidity.

But most of all, the place is just so geared towards tourism that it’s a bit off-putting to me. And it’s not that there are that many tourists. I actually overhead the locals say that the tourism was pretty dead as the season was coming to a close. It’s just the…vibes…I suppose. By that I mean, tourist prices, tourist food, rolling suitcases, 15-people ATV tours, people who ignore signs posted to not touch wildlife, electronic music parties, so many foreigner-oriented eateries that I am not even sure if I know what Panamanian food is, overpriced restaurants on distant islands whose sole purpose is to serve hordes of tourists brought on tours, etc. Do you get the idea?

In Bocas I was just another gringo tourist added to the equation. Anyway, some tourist destinations manage these “vibes” better than others, but I just felt the tourism levels in Bocas are such that it’s hard to get a real feel for Panama. Even convincing locals to speak with me in Spanish took some insistence. Many of those involved in tourism, whether locals or ex-pats, speak very passable English (or are native English speakers) and had to be strongly implored to join me in speaking Spanish. I noticed that some of the ex-pats who had been living there for many years could hardly speak a lick of español — maybe that alone better depicts what I am trying to explain.

All that said, good surfing is usually the antidote for everything. A magical surf session can wash away the saltiest impression of a place. And while I surfed quite a bit with several fun days, the surf season there in April was coming to an end, so I really didn’t get great surf. I’d say half the days there was no surf at all (quite the contrast to my 21 straight days of surfing in Michoacán, Mexico). If I had been there during peak season, say February, maybe I would be singing a totally different tune. Although, based on what I hear about the crowds in peak season, maybe not.

I spoke to a friend who has been to Bocas twice. He said he had a similar impression as me the first time he went, but the second time he had the trip of a lifetime. Does that mean I need to go back?… While poking around on Google, I can see that I am not the only blogger who had this ‘meh’ reaction to Bocas. One couple explained it well, saying they just “didn’t get” why people fawn over Bocas compared to other Caribbean beach destinations.

I’ve learned over the years that it’s important to keep expectations in check when traveling to touristy places. You need to embrace the place for what it is or you are setting yourself up for failure. But, of course, I am just one person — a stubbornly budget-conscious surf writer with a touch of introvert whose opinion on Bocas was maybe tainted by a three-day spell of debilitating stomach bug. Many clearly love Bocas, as is evidenced by the non-stop flow of tourists that come and take to the streets of Bocas Town on ‘Filthy Friday,’ so take whatever I say with a grain of salt.

As I departed Bocas and took a boat to a grimy, industrial port town on the mainland, I finally felt like I was in Panama. I struck up a conversation with a few young locals who all wanted my first-hand report about a fire that was burning down a building back on the island. Interacting with locals in a non-transactional setting was refreshing, which almost never happened in Bocas.

As I talk myself in circles trying to make sense of my time in Panama, I must clarify that it wasn’t bad at all. In fact, I’d say Bocas was interesting with its windows of fun and several moments of bliss. But are there other places I’d rather have gone that would have saved me a lot of money? Probably. But do I wish I could take it back? Nah. So is the world of travel, you learn as you go.

https://evanquarnstrom.com/2024/04/14/candid-thoughts-on-bocas-del-toro-panama/

(photo) https://skullyshousebocas.com/bocas-del-toro/

Monday, October 28, 2024

Windmill Palm

Trachycarpus fortunei - also known as Chinese Palm

The windmill palm is a perennial member of the palm family (Arecaceae) native to subtropical and temperate mountain forests of China. It is one of the more cold-hardy members of the family, and as such, is a popular choice for bringing a tropical flair to temperate landscape. The genus name is derived from Greek meaning "rough fruit," referring to the irregularly shaped fruits. The species epithet honors famed 19th-century Scottish plant hunter Robert Fortune, who first introduced the palm to Europe.

Although it can be grown in full sun, a location that provides some shade and protection from strong or cold winds can be beneficial. When no protection from strong wind is provided, the leaves tend to tear. The damage is not lethal, but it is unsightly. This palm is moderately salt tolerant. 

In the wild, the windmill palm can reach 20 to 40 feet tall and sometimes taller. In cultivation, it typically tops out around 10 feet tall. It makes a great specimen plant or is effective in small groups. It has a solitary trunk that appears shaggy and hairy with leftover dried petioles from shed leaves. Fibers from the leaves are often used in weaving. Propagation can be accomplished from seed, however both male and female plants are necessary for seed production.  

It can be grown in large containers and overwintered indoors in colder climates. Use it to frame an entryway or garden path. It is an excellent choice for an Asian garden, a tropical garden, a winter garden or a children’s garden.

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/trachycarpus-fortunei/

Thursday, October 17, 2024

LA LOM Performs "Juana La Cubana"


These guys make me think of hanging out in Miami in the 1960's

Monday, October 14, 2024

Black Sails

I just finished watching Black Sails for the second time.

If you're a pirate lover and haven't seen it you must be living under a rock. 

 Check it out on Netflix right now, or buy the DVD box set.